After spending 2 years in Split, I feel like there are some very clear pros and cons. So depending on if meeting like-minded travellers is a top priority, or if the cost of living is where your head is at, then I'll run through what sealed the deal for me and prepare you for what Split is like in the off-season/winter.
Pro: Peace & Quiet
If you have experienced Split in the high season (July & August) you know it is vibrant and high-energy city with a tonne of activities and lots of crowds (oh-so-many people!) all in holiday mode. But let it be said that Split in the winter is a completely different city. If peace and quiet in a beautiful city, close to nature and having the stone streets of a Roman palace all to yourself sounds like your shot of rakija, then Split is a no-brainer.
It is important to stress that Split is very quiet in Winter - even Croatians leave. Personally, I love a more introverted, slow and quiet life. I also like how the chances of bumping into the occasional familiar face in one of the few open cafes is more likely in winter.
Pro: Easier to Find an Affordable Apartment
Finding long-term accommodation in Split is incredibly difficult with many landlords kicking out long-term stayers between June-September to ensure they get as many of those tourist dollars as possible. In the high season, apartments go for silly amounts per night because, the reality is, accommodation is limited in Split and everyone wants to be here in the summer, especially during Ultra Festival.
However, once the tourists leave, the prices come back down and rents become more affordable for the average online worker. For online workers, I recommend exploring places with a good connection to Split while considering the travel costs in your budget in order to open up long-term accommodation options for digital nomads over the summer period.
Pro: It's Cold, But Not Cold Cold
It's cold in Split in winter but its not unbearable. The majority of the days are not grey, dull and depressing. In fact, many of the days are clear, a bit fresh and aren't even bad all day. There will be days in December where you will be walking up Marjan Hill in a t-shirt, but also days where you're sure you've never seen it rain quite like that before!
When I lived in London, the moody days would last all day and drag on for weeks, even months at a time. It felt like Groundhog Day. Expect there to be rain, storms and dreary days here, but it's not consistent - and that's what makes it so much easier to weather (pun intended) a Split winter than most European cities.
Pro: Smaller Community
Just a handful of nomads are brave enough to tough it out over winter. The ones that stay make it much easier for new nomads to find their footing. With lots of get-togethers happening and a very active WhatsApp group, you'll never feel like you're existing in a tiny digital-nomad bubble in some weird, foreign country.
This was a big pro for me. When I first arrived, we were the first group of guinea pigs for the new Digital Nomad Visa Croatia had just introduced, so naturally, there were many passionate and fiery (ok...drunk) conversations about MUP (visa handlers), bureaucracy and Croatian-isms that really strengthened our bond.
Con: Harder to Meet New People
What is a pro for some might be a con for others. If you're looking for somewhere with a lot happening and you like to surround yourself with lots of chances to meet new people, Split in winter may not be the ideal place for you.
Con: Limited Flights To and From Split
Escaping to warmer climates (while keeping your base in Split) is limited with fewer flights in and out. True, it is still possible to get to where you need to go, but flights are rarely heading where you want, and the stopovers very rarely align.
Con: Shops, Restaurants and Sites Closed
Google won't tell you this, either! (Croatian businesses are still learning how to update their opening hours on their Google Business Profile.) Prepare to have plans change and to visit the same 5 or 6 bars because everything else is closed until Summer.
Con: Tourist Excursions Shut Down or Closed
You have a long weekend coming up and you want to finally get around to doing that Blue Cave tour you've been meaning to do - except everything is now closed. In the low season, you really need to get creative and go with the flow. It is all about making the most of what little is available.
Tourist Spots (that are just better) Outside of Peak Season
Krka National Park in April-June
After seeing some unflattering 'Instagram vs Reality' reels of Krka National Park in summer, I can confirm that this spot is a very different place outside of the peak tourist season. It is incredibly crowded in summer, not to mention hot! And with new rules stating you can't jump in the water, I can't imagine walking around in 30+ degree heat so close to these beautiful, crystal-clear swimming holes and not be able to jump in for a quick dip.
I went to Krka in April. I booked the cheapest tour to Krka Waterfalls I could find to ensure I would be left alone to wander where I wanted and at a pace I set. It didn't take long to walk around the park's boardwalk, so instead of hopping on the river boat that takes you straight to Skradin, I decided to walk my way there - something I would 100% recommend. It was a stunning walk and I was surprised to only see 3 or 4 others on the path. I estimate it took about 1.5 hours to get to Skradin (with lots of photo and nature appreciation stops) and when I arrived, I had a quick nap by the river before lunch and exploring more. Bliss!
Wine and Olive Oil Tour with Marin
Ok, so this might not be the usual tour you'd book, but trust me on this one. This is so much more than a wine and olive oil tour. There is a reason why it has a 4.99 star rating with over 1,200 reviews on AirBnB experiences. No affiliate content here, I genuinely think anyone visiting Split and looking for an authentic glimpse into what life is like for many Croatians outside of the cities, the history and understanding Croatian mentality and values, I would spend a few hours with Marin on his family farm.
I did this tour in March and it was a beautiful clear day. I think this is a great tour to book outside of the peak season because we were a nice small group of 3 and also because I imagine it gets pretty hot up there in Summer. It is set in the mountains next to Klis Fortress so it was a spectacular view overlooking Split and neighbouring islands. Honestly, I could rave about this tour until the cows come home, but just take my word for it and book it in already!
Visit the Island of Vis
First things first: You'll need a scooter to get around Vis, so let your Airbnb host know so they can help you sort this. Pretty much nothing is open on Vis in the off-season (including the scooter rental place) and so it helps to communicate what you need as someone will always know someone (who knows someone) who can help you. That's kind of how it works a lot of the time in Croatia.
I came to Vis in March and it was magic; blasting around empty roads, having the popular Stiniva Cove to myself and eating the best Scorpian fish I've ever tasted at Restoran Pajoda. (Shoutout to our waiter who deboned it by candlelight and without his glasses on!)
Grab yourself a bottle of Croatian wine from Tommy's (and some cat treats for the locals) head down to the water in the evening and cheers yourself for deciding to visit this beautiful, unspoiled part of the world.