One word: EXTRAORDINARY
You've got to see it to believe it. Diving these waters is like entering another world. The stark, lifeless beige of the desert above fades away, replaced by a kaleidoscope of colors. Beneath the waves lies a bustling metropolis of sea creatures, going about their day.
It's true; Egypt has a pretty bad reputation for handling shark-related matters. If anything happens to you while in the water, Egypt will double-check who's paying the bill before sewing you back up. Don't let this put you off, though!
No risk, no reward—right?!
First things first, if you're scuba certified with 15 or so dives under your belt, I urge you to get really comfortable with your scuba gear and ensure you are comfortable with taking care of yourself underwater before diving in Egypt. This is no shade to the instructors, but diving in Egypt can have big tour groups, fast turnaround times and distractions coming from every direction.
Here are my top 3 tips to keep in mind when you go diving in Egypt as a diver with at least 15-20 dives logged:
It doesn't matter if everyone is complaining that you're taking too long; you should never get in the water without checking your own gear first. (Real scuba divers don't mind waiting). It's scuba diving 101, but it is so common when diving that someone else will assemble your gear for you, buckle you in and throw you in the water. Very courteous, but distractions happen.
One bonus of getting sea sick is that I often stay on the bottom deck with the team of guys assembling the equipment. I am able to put my own gear together, as well as making some new friends (and feeding the fish in some instances!).
I'm not talking about seasickness, either. Real talk for a moment: it doesn't matter if you're a guy or gal travelling in Egypt, if you can't say the word 'no', then you will have an exceptionally uncomfortable time ahead of you. If you can't trust yourself to speak up, then it might be beneficial to you to travel with someone who you can trust to speak up in situations.
When gaining my advanced open water certificate, I was on my way out to a dive site with my instructor. He was rushing along and yelling at me to do all the things that I was trying to do (you can't put a weight belt on after your BCD, mate!) . It came to a head and I finally said "stop yelling at me, I can hear you". After an uncomfortable - but necessary - silence, we were on our way. I will never be stressed out on a dive because the instructor is having a bad day... again. This is how mistakes happen.
There is no shortage of scuba diving companies to pick from on Egypt's Red Sea. In fact, it can be a daunting task picking one where it clearly states what you're going to get, while also secretly deciding if the team cares if I die or not. It seems everyone is working on commission in Egypt, so whoever scoops you up first is usually who you'll end up going with. It'll be hit and miss, but that's ok. It is all part of diving in Egypt so have some fun with it.
I made a good friend from this. His name is Ahmed and this guy... honestly, whatever the definition of 'above and beyond' is, he went ever further. Not only did he book me onto diving, he helped me fly to Luxor on a flight that couldn't be found online. As a seasoned traveller, I feel like I know all the hacks to making things happen when it comes to getting from A to B, but this time, I couldn't make it happen.
There has to be a way, I thought.
This is Egypt after all - the country where you'll never hear someone say "no, that's not possible".
There was not a single empty seat on that plane so I know he pulled a lot of strings to get me on that flight to Luxor. I'll be forever grateful.
Why am I telling you this? In all honesty, it didn't matter if I made it to Luxor on a certain date or not. It was the fact that a complete stranger was looking out for me and making sure I felt comfortable by opening up about his friends and family who live in New Zealand too. Ahmed understood the assignment, so I wasn't surprised to find out he was working for a bigger company only a week or so later when I messaged him again, asking him if he could book me onto an Advanced Divers Course.
Other than New Zealand, Egypt is the only place in the world where I've ever had someone say "Kia Ora" to me. It's a real trip. I smiled from ear to ear because not only did this off-the-cuff bid for connection really mean a lot in that moment, but he'd also had someone from New Zealand teach him that.
Diving in Dahab, the Blue Lagoon & A Food Tour of Cairo
Sharm el Sheikh (said as 'shake') is the gateway to the incredible Ras Mohammed National Park - a must-do for any scuba diver. It's true; it is popular. It is busy. It does feel a bit like you're going through a dive conveyor belt, but it truly is an unbelievable spot for diving.
If you want to take the guesswork out of organising a dive experience in Sharm, it would be rude not to recommend my friend Ahmed to help make things happen. Tell him whatever your heart wants to do, and he'll either make it happen, or get pretty dang close.
Send Ahmed a message on Facebook here and let him know when you're coming... and tell him I say hi!
So, I have a confession to make. I ended up staying in a resort for a workcation in Hurghada. If you know me, you'll know I hate resorts. Don't judge. It was mildly entertaining. Mildly interesting. Mildly relaxing. Resorts are like valium for your soul - you'll feel like your heart is wrapped in clouds, but the reality is, the hardest your brain will ever need to work in one is when you're deciding whether to have chicken or fish for dinner. Less 'travelling' and more like taking a double dose of the blue pill.
Luckily, the Prima Life Resort Makadi had a brilliant dive center. It's going to sound a bit grim when you ask me why I recommend them, but I'll share it anyway. On my final day before heading back to Croatia, an elder lady was pulled unconscious from the sea. Before anyone really knew what was going on or had heard the cries for help, all the guys from the dive centre were down at the waterside trying to save this woman's life. The speed at which they sprinted across the sand to get lifesaving equipment, there was no doubt in my mind they were all trained well and aware that every second counted.
Dahab (with the world-famous Blue Hole) is a relatively small town with resources that are not like what you may expect from your own country - just keep that in mind if you're going to get yourself into any kind of trouble here.
If you're staying in Dahab and want to make your own way out to the Blue Hole yourself, just get a taxi out there. The trip out there over semi-sandy makeshift roads is one of those comical moments you'll remember and laugh about for years to come. (Big-busted ladies, I recommend wearing a good sports bra for this ride.)
In terms of finding the best scuba diving operator in Dahab, I went with Fantasea Divers Dahab and that was based purely on the fact that I thought the name was cool. It was only me and my divemaster on all the dives and he was very relaxed and took the time to explain everything. He even grabbed some photos of me and showed me how to make bubble rings.
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